Ensenada Grande

We left Bonanza in search of a calmer anchorage with protection from the southern winds. Ensenada Grande, on the northwest side of Isla Partida, seemed like an excellent choice. This place is beautiful. Desert-like, with reddish rocks surrounding the anchorage, it feels like you’re in the grand canyon, but with water. We arrived to find calm waters and no one around. Ahhh!

Sailing the east side of Espiritu Santo.

Sailing the east side of Espiritu Santo.

Approaching Los Islotes

Approaching Los Islotes

Los Islotes

Los Islotes

We wake up the next morning and while it’s windy and a bit rolly, it’s nowhere near as bad as Bonanza. It’s been a long time since Scott and I have stepped off the boat and we’re eager to do so. Unfortunately, Scott tweaked his back and can’t get off the boat, so I inflate the SUP and check out the place. It’s really neat, with the rock walls meeting the waters, providing wonderful snorkeling.

At first, we were the only boat here. By the time we went to bed we were joined by a small powerboat. By the afternoon, a few tour boats pulled in and a handful of charters dropped the hook and the vibe changed. People were waterskiing and filling the waters. By nightfall, twelve boats in all were anchored and the “oontz oontz” began as the powerboats flicked on their pink and blue underwater lights and partied. It’s like a mini Cabo.

We made pizza on the grill (Oaxacan cheese is a good substitute for mozzarella), popped open a bottle of Round Pond Prop Red (we’re down to our last three bottles of really good wine), and enjoyed a night in the cockpit, turning our music up to drown out all the other tunes pulsing into the night. Yes, let’s blast some Regina Specktor and Imogene Heap. That will confuse everyone!

I could have stayed an extra day or two here, despite the crowds and the nighttime coromuel because the waters are warm and clear, and clearly there was good snorkeling here, but Scott was completely over it. So off we go in search of a quiet night.

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